OLTREPÒ MANTOVANO 1
The Monastery of Matilda
70% Culture | 10% Nature | 20% Food & Wine
PEGOGNAGA / SAN BENEDETTO PO
Culture
70
Food and wine
20
Nature
10
Itinerary description
The Oltrepò Mantovano area not only offers rich traditions and flavors but also holds a millennia-old history. Unique architecture and places of worship transport visitors back to a time when these lands were under the rule of Matilda of Canossa, a prominent figure of the Italian Middle Ages.
The journey begins in Pegognaga, a Roman settlement with an ancient history, as evidenced by the many artifacts uncovered in the extensive archaeological area of San Lorenzo, now preserved in the Civic Museum. The village began to expand in the 11th century under Matilda, who promoted significant construction efforts. The main testimony of this period is the Romanesque Pieve di San Lorenzo, commissioned by Matilda in 1082.
The route then continues to nearby San Benedetto Po, set in the fertile Mantuan countryside. This medieval village is home to the Abbey of San Benedetto in Polirone, one of Italy’s oldest Benedictine monasteries. Donated to the monks by Matilda’s grandfather, it was renovated and expanded during her rule. A thorough visit reveals the abbey’s fascinating history and showcases the remarkable spaces of the complex, including the cloisters, the church, the grand refectory, the cellars, and the Civic Museum.
The Mantova Strada Councils
Where
to eat
Corte Villoresi
Strada Pianone, 1
46023 Gonzaga MN
cortevilloresi@gmail.com
Where to
Taste
Cantina Bugno Martino
Via Zottole, 93
46027 San Benedetto po (MN)
www.bugnomartino.com
Cantina Sociale di Gonzaga
Viale Stazione, 39
46023 GONZAGA (MN)
www.cantinagonzaga.it
Forno La Rosa
Via Ronchi, 2/A
San Benedetto Po, Italy, 46026
Latteria Begozzo
Strada, Via Begozzo, 10
46023 Palidano MN
www.latteriabegozzo.it
Accommodation
facilities
The stages
An ancient Roman settlement founded in the 1st century AD, it was abandoned and likely destroyed during the barbarian invasions, only to be reborn in the 9th century AD. Significant artifacts from its ancient past were discovered starting in the mid-19th century in the vast archaeological area of San Lorenzo and are now housed in the fascinating Civic Archaeological Museum. Becoming part of the domains of Matilda of Canossa, Pegognaga experienced a period of expansion and growth. This strong momentum, particularly in construction, can still be observed today in the architecture of the Church of San Lorenzo. It is a Romanesque-style church with three naves, built entirely of brick. Some elements are linked to the specific architectural tradition known as Mantuan Matildic style, such as the raised central section of the facade and the presence of three apses. The church was used as a shelter during World War I, and later, an extensive restoration altered some elements of the facade. Following the earthquake in 2012, it became the main parish church of the village, replacing the Church of the Assumption, which was destroyed.
A delightful medieval town is home to the Abbey of San Benedetto in Polirone, dating back to 1007, the year Tedaldo of Canossa, grandfather of Countess Matilda, entrusted the Benedictine monks with the monastery and some adjacent lands. However, it was under Matilda’s rule that the monastic complex was renewed, taking on the structure that can still be admired today. Following the well-known events that saw the countess act as mediator between Emperor Henry IV and Pope Gregory VII, the abbey was donated to the Pope and placed under the jurisdiction of Cluny. The architecture of the complex was then adapted to the Cluniac model, with the apse being equipped with an ambulatory and radial chapels.
The complex was later enriched with a refectory frescoed by the great Correggio and the church, a 16th-century masterpiece by the renowned architect Giulio Romano. Romano reinterpreted the earlier Romanesque and Gothic-style structure without demolishing it, instead adapting it with original and innovative solutions. Inside, the Oratory of Santa Maria, dating back to the 11th century, was preserved, which initially housed the tomb of Countess Matilda before her remains were transferred to St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City.
The abbey also boasts three extraordinary cloisters, 16th-century cellars that house a beautiful collection of agricultural carts, and the Polironiano Civic Museum, which offers an extensive exploration of the history of rural life in this region.
San Benedetto Po is not only a treasure trove of historical and architectural wonders but also a gastronomic haven. Highlights include mute duck ragù, pumpkin tortelli, and salami cooked under ashes. Among the desserts, the traditional torta di tagliatelle stands out, made with shortcrust pastry filled with almonds and topped with egg tagliatelle.
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